A Road Trip Through Hokkaido, Japan
Taking up a huge 22% of Japan’s land mass, Hokkaido is vast. From active volcanoes simmering quietly in the mountainside and oceans freezing over in winter’s subzero conditions, to indigenous Ainu culture dating back hundreds of years and some of Japan’s most diverse wildlife – it’s easy to see why Japan’s northern island has attracted nature-lovers and adventurers the world over.
Having travelled to Hokkaido across each season since being in Japan, I was keen to add something new to my latest trip. Hokkaido is huge, and often the best things are discovered when wandering off the beaten path or to far corners and National Parks. Travelling by car gave us the perfect opportunity to explore Japan’s second largest prefecture at our own pace, getting lost and learning more about rural Japanese life or ‘inaka’ (いなか) along the way.
Moving into warmer months, Hokkaido truly starts to come to life; sprawling coastlines alongside rich natural landscapes, steamy hot springs and shinto shrines by the sea, all add to the unique character of the island.
Across three days, we based ourselves in Sapporo, starting the day with iced coffee from Baristart and finishing with some of Hokkaido’s famous miso ramen, soup curry and fresh sushi. We started our journey into Shikotsu-Toya National Park, across to Cape Kamui on the West Coast, all the way through Beiei in the East, and up to the iconic Shosanbetsu Shrine in the North. Along the way, it wasn’t rare to see deer walking by the roadside, also foxes, snakes, sea eagles – and don’t forget to carry a bell in case you encounter a bear.
Discover more lesser-known destinations, bucket list experiences and unique hotels in my brand new guidebook, Views from Japan.
Looking for More Road Trip Ideas?
I think it’s fair to say I recommend Hokkaido to anyone looking to build a Japan itinerary in the future. Each season the island transforms and natural landscapes are a sight to behold. If you are looking for more in-depth guides to Hokkaido, make sure to check out my Shiretoko National Park guide as well as my latest guidebook, Views from Japan.
Where to Stay
Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto
Set on the edge of Lake Poroto, the 42-room ryokan blurs the line between man-made structures and the forested surroundings. Its unique bathhouses, inspired by ancient Ainu villages, occupy a cone-shaped structure with outdoor and indoor baths. Rooms have striking white birch columns, fireplace inspired tables and Ainu-patterned artworks. Local seafood informs the dinner menu, with dishes such as fragrant daigo nabe, a hotpot teeming with stewed crab and scallops.
Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho
Designed as a second home for guests whilst immersed in the surrounding forest, Tsuruga Bessou Mokunosho is located alongside the Niseko Anbetsu River (meaning ‘water flowing under the cliff’ in the indigenous Ainu language). Wooden interiors surround a central fireplace and Ainu-inspired artworks, and guest rooms feature private hot spring baths. The on-site restaurant celebrates Hokkaido as a ‘region of culinary treasure’ featuring seasonal Japanese Kaiseki-style cuisine.
Book Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho now.
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