How to Spend 72 Hours in Kusatsu Onsen
One of Japan’s most celebrated hot spring towns, Kusatsu Onsen has drawn visitors for centuries with its intensely mineral-rich waters and dramatic geothermal landscapes. Once a retreat for samurai and scholars, today it remains a place where tradition thrives—steaming bathhouses, wooden ryokan, and time-honoured bathing rituals are all part of daily life. The town’s centrepiece, the Yubatake, channels scalding spring water through a network of wooden troughs, filling the air with sulfur and steam. But Kusatsu is more than just its famous baths. Wander through temple grounds, explore rugged mountain trails, or warm up with street food that’s as much a part of the experience as the water. Just a few hours from Tokyo, here’s how to spend 72 hours in Kusatsu Onsen.
Yubatake
At the heart of Kusatsu Onsen, the Yubatake—or “hot water field”—is both a landmark and a spectacle for visitors. A constant flow of steaming, sulfur-rich water cascades through a network of wooden channels, cooling slightly before it’s distributed to the town’s baths. The mineral deposits left behind stain the wood in a striking shade of ochre, while the thick steam rising into the air gives the entire area an otherworldly feel, especially at night when the scene glows under soft lantern light. Benches and footbaths nearby offer a chance to pause and take it in, while the surrounding shops sell everything from freshly steamed onsen manju to locally crafted souvenirs, making this the natural starting point for any visit to Kusatsu.
Related Post: The Beginner's Guide to Onsen Etiquette in Japan.
Kusatsu Onsen Netsunoyu
Kusatsu Onsen Netsunoyu offers a rare look at one of the town’s most dramatic bathing traditions: yumomi, the time-honoured practice of stirring piping hot onsen water with oversized wooden paddles to cool it to a bearable temperature. Performed several times a day in a theatre-style setting, the demonstration is equal parts ritual and performance, complete with rhythmic chants and coordinated movements that have been passed down for generations. Unlike most onsen experiences, this one is meant to be watched rather than soaked in—but if you want to participate, some sessions allow visitors to try their hand at the stirring process. Shows run frequently throughout the day, and tickets can be purchased on-site (30 minutes before each show), with performance lasting around 15 minutes.
Kōsenji Temple
Tucked away in a quiet corner of Kusatsu, Kōsenji Temple offers a well-earned escape from the relative bustle of the onsen town. Located just up the hill from Yubatake and founded in the 14th century, the temple celebrates the glory of Kusatsu Onsen. It's a small but meaningful place to pause and reflect, and you’ll often find other visitors linger here to appreciate the subtle beauty of the surrounding nature.
Top Tip: Watch out for the Yubatake Candle Yume no Akari (湯畑キャンドル夢の灯り) where around 1,500 candles are placed on the staircase leading to the temple.
Sainokawara Park
Just outside of Kusatsu town centre is Sainokawara Park. Expect a multitude of hot spring sources and one of Japan’s largest outdoor baths, the Sainokawara Rotenburo, where you can soak in mineral-rich waters. For those who are interested in exploring the area a little further, gentle walking trails around the upper part make for a nice way to finish your day. As you walk through the park, you’ll witness hot spring water bubbling to the surface. Near the base, you’ll find a hot waterfall with a free footbath nearby–well needed after your day exploring.
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Shirahata Hot Spring
Shirahata Hot Spring, tucked away on the outskirts of Kusatsu, offers a more intimate onsen experience. Just like Chiyo-no-yu and Jizo-no-yu, Shirahata Hot Spring is a free-of-charge public bathhouse. This one in particular is known for its naturally milky-white waters, rich in sulfur and minerals, which are said to have therapeutic properties for the skin–the only cloudy water onsen in the whole of Kusatsu Onsen. The bathhouse itself exudes a rustic charm, with its simple wooden structure and peaceful surroundings, a nice change of pace from the town’s busier onsens.
Street Food Delicacies
As you wander through the town’s narrow lanes, you’ll be tempted by stalls selling ‘onsen manju’—steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste and often served warm, fresh from the steam. Another local onsen favourite is ‘onsen tamago’, eggs boiled in the hot waters of the springs. Most of all, Kusatsu Onsen is known for its maitake (mushroom) tempura, you’ll find them at the soba shops near the Yubatake.
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10 Tips & Tricks
Hike Mount Shirane: For those looking for a challenge, the hike offers dramatic views of rugged terrain and the striking blue Yugama Lake. With the no-entry zone around the crater now reduced to 500 metres, visitors can reach the Shirane Rest House and viewpoint from mid-April to early November.
Don’t miss the Yumomi performance: At Kusatsu Onsen Netsunoyu, watch the traditional Yumomi (water stirring) demonstration, a must-see local ritual. Check the schedule for performance times, as they’re held throughout the day, but make sure to arrive 15 minutes early to secure your spot.
Bring your own towel: While many onsen offer rental towels, it’s always a good idea to bring your own small towel to wipe off before you enter the baths. It’s part of the onsen etiquette and ensures you’re prepared, especially when visiting smaller, more local bathhouses like Shirahata.
Use the footbaths: If you’re not in the mood for a full soak, Kusatsu’s public footbaths are a fantastic way to enjoy the town’s healing waters without committing to a lengthy bath. You’ll find several around the town, with some near Yubatake and Sainokawara Park.
Hydrate before you soak: Kusatsu’s hot springs are known for their extreme temperatures. Make sure you’re well-hydrated before heading into any bath. Drinking a cup of water or tea before soaking helps avoid overheating, particularly if you’re new to onsen culture.
Take advantage of the nighttime atmosphere: Kusatsu is magical at night. The steam rising from the Yubatake under the glow of lanterns and the quiet atmosphere around Sainokawara Park make for an entirely different experience from the daytime visit.
Stay at a ryokan with private baths: For a more relaxed experience, book a ryokan with a private onsen bath in your room. It’s a more intimate way to enjoy Kusatsu’s therapeutic waters without the crowds. Many ryokan also offer delicious kaiseki meals–definitely worth experiencing if you’ve never tried it before.
Explore beyond the main streets: While the main areas around Yubatake can get busy, take time to explore the quieter streets, especially around the Shirahata Hot Spring. You’ll discover charming local shops, peaceful footbaths, and views of Mount Shirane.
Pack warm clothes for the Winter months: Kusatsu sits at an altitude of over 1,200 metres, so it can get chilly, particularly in the winter months. Even if you're only visiting for a short time, be sure to bring a jacket and warm layers, especially if you plan to walk around the parks or visit outdoor baths.
Try local sweets: Don’t miss Kusatsu’s famous onsen manju—sweet red bean-filled buns. Many shops sell freshly steamed ones near Yubatake and Sainokawara Park– they’re the perfect snack after a soak or during a quiet walk around town.
How to Get There
To reach Kusatsu Onsen from Tokyo, take the JR Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station (about 1 hour), then take a 1 hour 15 minutes journey to Kusatsu Onsen by bus. Alternatively, and perhaps more conveniently, you can take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku Station, which takes around 4 hours.
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