An Architect's Guide to Awaji Island
Situated between Honshu and Shikoku, Awaji quietly boasts an impressive collection of architecture, drawing in those with an eye for thoughtful design. It’s one of many remote but beautiful places in Japan that hides impressive architecture and design. The innovative works of two of Japan’s most influential architects, Shigeru Ban and Tadao Ando, stand out on the island in structures such as Awaji Yumebutai and Zenbo Seinei, which seamlessly turn natural materials into works of art. For those who may have done Japan’s beaten track, diving deeper into the country’s unique architecture on Awaji Island is an eye-opening addition to any itinerary.
A Tale of Two Architects
Awaji Island is home to two fascinating architectural approaches. Shigeru Ban, known for his pioneering use of wood and recycled materials, creates spaces that feel warm and deeply connected to their environment. Ban’s Zenbo Seinei retreat, crafted entirely from timber, emphasises sustainability and immersion in nature. Tadao Ando sculpts space with concrete, light, and shadow, crafting structures that evoke introspection and solitude, and anyone who has visited Japan’s incredible art islands will recognise his work immediately. Ando has shaped the landscape with these signature concrete structures, including the contemplative Honpukuji Water Temple and the Awaji Yumebutai complex.
Discover lesser-known destinations, bucket list experiences and unique hotel recommendations in my guidebook, Views from Japan.
Zenbo Seinei
One of the most memorable parts of my visit to Awaji Island was staying at Zenbo Seinei, a timber retreat designed by Shigeru Ban. If you’re not sure what kind of hotel to book on Awaji Island or elsewhere in Japan, a serene design hotel like this is a strong choice. Sitting on a hillside, this meditation-focused structure melts seamlessly into the surrounding forest and masterfully showcases Japanese design. It has a 100m-long wooden deck, which is elevated above the landscape, that offers uninterrupted views of the surrounding greenery—a space encouraging stillness and reflection in nature.
Haru San San
Haru San San is the culinary embodiment of Japanese design. Every dish is carefully curated by Chef Nobuaki Fushiki and is designed not just for eating but to fuel the mind, body and soul with sustainable ingredients relevant to each season. The restaurant champions the slow food movement, meaning everything is sourced on the island in order to preserve the land, making dining here not just about eating—it’s about slowing down and engaging with the farm-to-table story of each ingredient.
Honpukuji Water Temple
At first glance, Tadao Ando’s Honpukuji Water Temple appears as nothing more than a still pool reflecting the sky. But a descent down a concealed staircase reveals an underground sanctuary, where Ando’s mastery of light and concrete creates an atmosphere of deep contemplation. Originally, Ando was asked to rebuild the main hall of Honpukuji Temple and everyone expected a traditional approach, but what he created was profoundly different. Design enthusiasts will easily spot the similarities with Ando’s famous Benesse House in Naoshima.
Awaji Yumebutai
Perhaps the most ambitious of Ando’s works on the island, Awaji Yumebutai, is a testament to resilience and transformation. Built on the site of a devastating landslide, the complex reimagines destruction as an opportunity for beauty. The Hyakudanen, or 100 Stepped Garden, is the crowning feature—a geometric arrangement of terraced flower beds that shift with the seasons. The Shell Garden’s million seashells shimmer in shallow pools, while the Miracle Planet Museum of Plants is one of Japan’s largest greenhouses, allowing visitors to look out over the flora from an elevated walkway.
Looking for travel guides and itineraries? Subscribe to the weekly Views from Japan newsletter here.
10 Tips & Tricks for a Visit to Awaji Island
Download offline maps - Like many more remote places, service can be intermittent. Downloading maps means you can still get around with ease.
Plan around the seasons - consider when you’ll be visiting Awaji, as spring and autumn have ideal weather, while summer can be humid and winter sees fewer crowds.
Get a car or bicycle - For exploring Awaji, you’ll want some wheels. Cycling offers a slower pace, while a car allows freedom to sightsee in a short time.
Arrive early - Sights like Zenbo Seinei can get crowded, but more than that, experiencing them early in the morning ensures a peaceful experience and you can explore in your own time.
Try local experiences - Awaji has a fascinating history of being Japan’s top producer of incense, and if you have time, you can create your own in a workshop or take some home.
Budget ahead - if you’re road-tripping Japan and coming from Kobe, you may encounter tolls or bridge fees, so factor this into your budget.
Pack for the weather Awaji’s coastal location means the weather can change quickly, so bring layers, sun protection and a rain jacket.
Stay longer Many people rush around Awaji Island in a few hours, but stay overnight and you’ll discover a less crowded side, and you’ll have the sites to yourself.
Plan when to visit - Famous sites like the Honpukuji Water Temple have set opening and closing times, so check ahead to make sure you don’t miss anything.
Visit on a weekday If you can, avoid the weekends, which bring crowds to Awaji and opt for a quieter weekday exploration.
How to Get There
Awaji Island is conveniently located, with the closest airport being Kansai International Airport, which connects up to many major cities like Tokyo, Fukuoka and Sapporo. If travelling by public transport, a bus takes visitors to JR Sannomiya Station which connects up to Awaji Yumebutai via another express bus. The train is an easy alternative, with the JR Tokaido Main Line running from Osaka (25 mins) and Kyoto (55 mins) to JR Sannomiya Station from where you can catch the same express bus in around 50 mins. If you’re hiring a car, it takes approx. 2 hrs. from Kansai International Airport to get to Awaji Island. On Awaji Island, there are public buses running regularly from Sumoto Bus Center to popular locations, however, having your own wheels allows for more freedom.
Discover Japan, Minus the Crowds.
Are you tired of seeing the same over-crowded locations in Japan? I want to offer you a more meaningful experience; one that inspires you to travel to lesser-known destinations and explore Japan’s unique cultural experiences. Views from Japan is a brand new travel guidebook packed with over 260 unique experiences and timeless destinations, giving you all the tools so that you can create a once-in-a-lifetime Japan itinerary.
Related Blog Posts
