Sample Yamanashi Prefecture’s Finest Japanese Wines and French Cuisine
Yamanashi Prefecture might be famous for sprawling views of Japan’s most iconic sight, Mt Fuji, but what some don’t know is that the region is home to some of Japan’s most famous winemakers. Whether you are interested in fine dining, natural wines or discovering a new lesser-known area away from the crowds, Yamanashi Prefecture could be the ideal addition to your next Japan itinerary. Come with me as we taste rare Japanese wines with a veteran winemaker, enjoy French dining with seasonal ingredients from a Japanese chef, and wake up to an epic view over Fujisan himself.
Known across the nation as the birthplace of Japanese wine production, Yamanashi Prefecture aka ‘The Kingdom of Fruit’ is home to over 200 wine brands. The area just north of Mt Fuji yields the highest volume of grapes across the nation, largely due to its ideal weather conditions: low rainfall throughout the year and widely ranging temperatures between summer and winter.
Located in Koshu City – named after the area’s indigenous white grape variety – is the first stop on this Yamanashi tour: 98WINEs. Alongside business partner Akiko Yoshidome, veteran winemaker Shigeyuki Hirayama started the project after decades of working for well-respected Yamanashi vintners. Hirayama, charming and full of smiles, is no stranger to fine wines, having studied his craft in France and traveling to wineries in New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, and Argentina.
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The open-air tasting room, overlooking Mt Fuji and housed in a newly converted ‘kominka’ (farmhouse), is where guests are invited to sample the best of the fruits of Hirayama’s labor – natural wines using only local grapes, natural processes and produced on-site in the adjacent building. Hirayama is a passionate man and seeks to create wines that celebrate their provenance in Koshu City; mouthwatering wines that pair well with the delicate umami flavors of Japanese cuisine. For a visit to 98WINEs, we recommend consulting in advance for opening times and availability.
The next stop along the foodie tour of Yamanashi is La Maison Ancienne, a husband-and-wife owned French restaurant surrounded by local wine fields. Having opened its doors in 2016, the restaurant crafts its daily-changing menu using predominantly local ingredients, as well as fish brought in directly from Shizuoka Prefecture’s Yaizu Harbor. Limited to just two groups per day, guests can choose from a range of ‘special courses’, along with wine pairings, and upon entering the traditional Japanese kominka setting, you really will feel like you have stepped into a new world.
Highlight
98WINEs
The first in the trio of openings on this steep mountain road in Yamanashi (98WINEs, 98BEERs, STAY366). Here guests can sample the finest wines of the area in an open-air tasting room overlooking the iconic Mt Fuji. With three main varieties, “SOU” for daily dining table, “NOGI” with challenging construction, and “KOKU” for a refined taste, visitors to 98WINEs can enjoy a personalized and private experience and also see the wines being made first hand by the wine masters themselves.
Where to Stay
STAY366
Based around the concept of creating an extra day in the year, STAY366 is the latest creation from wine master Shigeyuki Hirayama of 98WINEs. The hotel consists of three uniquely designed guest rooms, an intimate dining room, lounge and open-air terrace looking over Mt Fuji below. The in-house restaurant and head chef and soba craftsman, Yasuhiro Kadoya, serve up soba kaiseki with wine pairings and beers from 98BEERs (located on the ground floor).
How to Get There
The easiest and quickest way to visit Yamanashi’s Koshu region from Tokyo is to take the JR Chuo Line Limited Express from Shinjuku Station to Enzan Station. From here, car rental is available to get around the area easily and freely. Multiple car rental options are also available from the Tokyo region. With close proximity to Mt Fuji, Koshu can also be paired up with day trips to the Kawaguchi and Fuji Five Lakes region. For more guides and insights into Yamanashi Prefecture, check out my latest guidebook, Views from Japan.
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